
To be moving again is not necessarily a good thing. I console myself with the thought that soon enough I’ll be in my new home, where I’ll be able to rest my feet and enjoy getting bored in one place (rather than many).
I’m in Melbourne now, having spent a week in Sydney, where I stayed with my old friend Rod and his partner Anita. They’ve got a great place in Surry Hills, a brightly-lit place in an area lousy with good cafés and the like. It’s not Yuppieville yet, but the constant renovation and the Starck-designed condos nearby suggest it will be soon (although the fact that they’re not selling is a good indicator that the housing boom in Sydney has slowed substantially).
Sydney was marvellous. Sunny and warm (okay, warm by Canadian standards at 17 or 18 degrees in the middle of “winter”), it was a great time to do some walking about, soaking up the great new architecture there. Plenty of those pics show up on Flickr. I’ve become a fan of Seidler, a man who’s designed numerous buildings throughout the city (and just had his citizenship revoked through a computer glitch).
Not having really spent time there for twelve years (I was there for an IASPM conference in 1999, but spent much of my time in Bronte, near Bondi Beach, and while under the weather with a kick-ass bronchial flu that had hit 1/4 of Sydney), I noted the many changes since then. There is a remarkable Asian face to Sydney now, which means I ate plenty of Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese food while there. I hit the Asian supermarkets as well (Berlin’s are pretty piss poor, actually) and found that on Sunday, the place was buzzing, while the rest of the CBD slept.
That said, I had a few experiences which left a bad taste in my mouth. The first happened within hours of my arrival, where, while walking by Central Station, I witnessed to Asian cab drivers being harassed by police, asked to open and empty the trunks of their cabs. It was very aggressive and to my eyes, quite invasive. This was happening in the context of a surveillance culture which is astounding in its pervasiveness. Plenty of signs asking you to watch your fellow citizen for suspiscious activity, etc. And just today, a story about a video release warning of a jihad, done by someone with an Australian accent. The sense that Australia is next is very present here.
The other experience was a bit more humorous, or at least I deflated it with humour. While walking home from downtown one night, Rod and I passed by an old wall ad, which I wanted to photograph. We were accosted by a quartet of pleasantly-drunk middle-aged locals who wanted to know what my interest in architecture was. I said I often preferred the old wall ads, which you find most often on older buildings of course. One fellow replied that there really is no old architecture in Aus, as the country is only a couple of hundred years old, to which I replied: “According to some.” His quick retort: “Oh, I’m not black, mate.” Rod and I diverged at that point.
On Tuesday, I gave a talk at UTS, doing a longer version of my Ping Pong Country presentation. It seemed to go down well enough and as I’m still working out some of the kinks, it was good to have some Berliners and a couple of other people familiar with the city in the audience. It’s always good to keep test driving these things, with good feedback to push it along. I think that once I get to Wellington, I’ll bang it into shape.
Having done the Sydney thing, I thought I’d get a good dose of Melbourne as well. I always preferred Melbourne to Sydney, as it’s just a bit more modest about its achievements. Of course, I hadn’t quite prepared for the weather, so when the pilot said it was 5 degrees out, I realized I’d used my heavy sweaters to actually pad my packing boxes back in Berlin. It appears that a cold front has moved up from the South Pole, which has meant that snow has fallen on the Southeast Coast for the first time in decades. It is bitterly cold here, but nothing a hardy (ex?) Canadian can’t handle.
My return was marred slightly by a mixup at the hostel I was supposed to stay at. They had no record of my having booked with them, and in fact they don’t take on-line bookings anymore. Perhaps they should tell people this? I did receive a receipt and my credit card was debited, though. Anyway, the place was a bit of a dank and mouldy tip, full of acoustic-guitar wielding crusty hippies and drunk Brits, no longer my idea of fun (if it ever was). I had to move to a hotel, which is probably better suited to my sleep needs. It’s down near Flinders Station, which is opposite the new Federation Square, a remarkable space which was not here when I last visited. I’ll stop by later today. Though can I just say that one building looks the mirror image of the Jewish Museum. The Aussies I was with want to argue that Fed Square may have actually come first, but I’ll do a bit of research and sort that out myself.
I’m in awe of the new bar culture here, which makes plenty of use of the city’s back alleys. A friend took me out to a few of them last night and they were all quite fun to hang out in. None of this existed twelve years ago, so it’s good to see the CBD spring to life again. Apparently Sydney is trying to do much the same to revive its downtown. First they have to get rid of the tourists (which don’t seem to plague Melbourne in the same way).
I’m now off to buy myself a scarf and a fleece. I comfort myself with the thought that I get two summers this year (but also two winters).
Music, culled from Remco’s Berlin collection of absolute trash. This is from an Indian film called “Apman.” It reminds me of the Shocking Blue’s “Venus,” mixed up with Ami Stewart’s cover of “Light My Fire.”
Iso G.
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